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Friday 14 March 2014

Wadi Bani Khalid – an Oasis in the midst of desert.

Ideas for a perfect weekend in the midst of sands, mountains and wild wadis of Oman

Blog ftom the Blue - Wadi Bani Khalid

How would you feel plunging into a natural swimming pool that is constantly replenished by fresh spring water? How about a family picnic in a cool and quite environ under the shadow of a sunkissed mountain? Is rock climbing or trekking interest you? Are you in the mood of taking a relaxed fish pedicure?

All these experiences, yes everything mentioned above coupled with a background that reminisces a perfect Arabian Desert oasis would come alive once you enter this beautiful landscape called Wadi Bani Khalid. We have been to this place twice and wouldn’t mind to be there for a third time!

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As you travel along the old Sur road and enter the Sharqiyah region at about a distance of 200 km from Muscat, the view of rocky and dry mountains, that is very much archetypal of the Sultanate of Oman, slowly disappears into endless red sand dunes of its only desert – Wahiba Sands. Not far from this desert – may be just at a distance of 30 kilometers or so from desert town of Bidiya, there is this natural wetland we are talking about – an oasis full of greenery fed by continuous flow of natural spring waters. It’s a small village called Wadi Bani Khalid (WBK) where the farmers cultivate varieties of fruits, vegetables and crops.

Blog ftom the Blue - Wadi Bani Khalid
The colourful road towards Wadi Bani Khalid
As you reach the dead end of the road, you need to park the car and walk for around 300 meters along the artificial water cannels that channelize spring water into farmlands. Upon crossing this narrow passage covered with tall grass and wet soil, the view of the emerald lake will welcome you. Many tourists return from this lake without noticing the signpost directing to the Mukal Cave (Muqal cave in some boards). Yes, the real thrill and fun is yet to be reached. For this, you need to trek for another 400 meters to see the natural pool, small waterfall and finally the cave.

Blog ftom the Blue - Wadi Bani Khalid
Springwater cannels

Blog ftom the Blue - Wadi Bani Khalid
Wadi Bani Khalid - first view
After climbing down the uneven rocks, once you reach the open area, you can engage yourself in lots of activities- you can swim across the narrow wadi carved between white rocks, dip yourself into the pool and relax lazily while a hoard of fish gently tickle your skin (fish spa is believed to be a great skin treatment as it cleans by removing the dead skin), or you can further go ahead to find the source of the spring, explore the Mukal cave and lose yourself in the wilderness of the wadi.

Blog ftom the Blue - Wadi Bani Khalid

Blog ftom the Blue - Wadi Bani Khalid

It’s truly a delight, a paradise not much explored. You will not find many tourists here (only if you visit during weekdays), nor has this place found a mention in many travel guides. Away from the hustles and bustles, this place will steal your heart with its calm and quite milieu and breathtaking view.

Blog ftom the Blue - Wadi Bani Khalid
This pool is ideal for fish pedicure

How to reach:


If you like reading directions, here is a short description of the road to WBK

1. If you start from Muscat, head towards airport. Just after crossing the airport take left turn from Al Mawalah roundabout towards Nizwa. This is a dual carriageway road, route no. 15 to be precise, that leads to Nizwa.

2. After half an hour or so, you will reach the town of Fanja. Keep moving straight until you reach Bidbid. From here, take a left turn towards Ibra. This is route no. 23 and a single carriageway which means a tardy driving experience.

3. After one and half hour or so, you will reach Ibra. Keep moving straight and you will enter the Sharqiah region. Here, you will be greeted by a view of red sand dunes on both sides of the road and if you are lucky you might see hoards of camels!

4. The town near the Wahiba sands is called Bidiya. Once you cross Bidiya and travel for around 15 km, you need to look cautiously towards left for a brown signboard written Wadi Bani Khalid and Mukal Cave. Take a left turn.

5. Keep moving until you hit a T junction. Take left from here. Then take the second right turn to reach the parking. From here, you can clearly see the fertile valley and vegetation. Start walking for about 10 minutes along the cannels that irrigate the place. Here you are!

Found the directions confusing? Not a problem. Just have look at this google map:


View Larger Map

Once you reach near the place, you might find it difficult to exactly locate the place. Ask any local villager where the water pool is located. Never ask where is WBK, because the entire village is called Wadi Bani Khalid. The villager will be more than happy to guide you.


What to see and do:


Here is a list of things to see and do at WBK – arranged from low to high activity level:

#Visit the village and see the farmland, #Picnic and BBQ, #Fish Therapy, #Trekking, #Swimming, #Snorkeling, #Diving, #Rock climbing, # Exploring inside the Mukal cave.

Blog ftom the Blue - Wadi Bani Khalid
Follow the directions in brown signboard towards the cave
Lots of things to do…! Still not tired….? Willing to do more….? Well, there are so many other things to see and do, but for this you need to come out of the wadi. Look through the itinerary section below where I’m mentioning various other activities in nearby places that you can club with your WBK adventure.

Blog ftom the Blue - Wadi Bani Khalid

Precautions to take:


1. Once you enter the wadi, you will notice a signboard asking the tourists not to engage any local villager for porter or any other services. Still, some local children might approach you to guide you through the valley anticipating some tips. There is no need for a tourist guide unless you want to explore the inside of the cave. Nonetheless, there is no harm in offering a small tip to the young kid.

2. Never swim in the first pool. It is full of algae and fungus that might harm your skin.

Blog ftom the Blue - Wadi Bani Khalid
Never swim here
3. Whatever activities you engage in, always be watchful. For, there is no doctor or pharmacy nearby. In case of a medical need, the nearest place to go is Sur which is at a distance of 110 km.

4. Keep water and food items with you. The nearest restaurant is at Bidiya – at a distance of 35 km. Also, don’t forget to bring a torch/flashlight in case you want to explore the cave.

5. In case of heavy rain, or even mild rain continuing for more than half an hour, leave this place immediately. Rain waters flow down from all the mountains and engulf the wadi very quickly. The whole area might get flooded in no time and eventually lead to a road block. Oman has lost many lives in floods caused by rainwater. The wadis in Oman turn very dangerous in case of rain.

Blog ftom the Blue - Wadi Bani Khalid

Plan your itinerary for 2 days of stay at Oman:


Wadi Bani Khalid is an experience to remember, a must visit site of Oman. Still, you would like to have more fun to compensate the long drive of 7 hours (3 and half hours each side), especially if you are visiting Oman for a short duration and want to explore as much as possible in a short time. So, here is an itinerary how you can club other must visit attractions of Oman for an overnight stay:

Blog ftom the Blue - Wadi Bani Khalid


1. Reach WBK at about 10 am in the morning. Irrespective of your choice of activity to do, you can spend at least 3 hours at this place. Thereafter head towards Wahiba sands (35 km) for Dune bashing at the desert (Remember to book a car in advance for dune bashing, or you can get one at Bidiya).

2. a) Stay overnight at a desert camp. A number of tour operators offer desert night camps. Book one in advance. Many of them offer barbeque dinner, local musical song and dance shows, camel riding etc. Spending a night at a desert camp with campfire and music will definitely remind you of the stories from Arabian nights that you might have read in your childhood.

Blog ftom the Blue - Wahiba Sands
A view of Wahiba Sands
b) In case you do not prefer to stay at a desert camp, you can head to Sur (110 km) where you can get a range of budget hotels. Choose the one you find most uncomfortable! Because you need to get up at night! People from all around the world folk here to wake up at midnight to see green turtles laying eggs on the beach. In fact there are a number of cozy resorts near Sur that specialise in turtle watching. Be careful not to disturb the turtles. Just follow your guide and have a memorable experience of watching big turtles crowding up the beach to lay eggs.

Blog ftom the Blue - Sur
Sur bridge
3. Next morning, wake up late and enjoy the view of beautiful beaches of Sur. Visit the hanging bridge of Sur and then take the 200 km long new Sur-Muscat road (route 17) to get back to Muscat. Don’t worry, it’s a dual carriageway and takes only 2 hours to Muscat. But, the beautiful view of the sea on one side and East Hajar mountain on the other side coupled with stunning landscapes and must visit attractions wouldn’t let you reach Muscat in 2 hours!

4. Things to see and do along the new Sur Road: Lots! Wadi Shab, Wadi Tiwi, Bimah Sinkhole, Wadi al Arbaeen, and the list go on. But I realise now my article getting too lengthy and I’m afraid I might turn you off. So, I stop here and promise to write about all the great things that could happen to you along the new Sur road in another blog article.


Other facts:


Finally I could not resist writing about some facts I found worth sharing about these places.

1. If you are not from the Middle East, you might be wondering what a Wadi is! It’s just like a river that only carries rainwater or spring water to the sea. They are mostly dry. In case of heavy rain, wadis are flooded with water from all the surrounding mountains.

2. Wadi bani Khalid is located at a mountain gorge. It is surrounded by tall steep mountains from all the sides, which means a late morning and an early evening.

3. The turn off from highway (route no. 23) to Wadi Bani Khalid crisscrosses many hills on its way. These hills are decorated in colourful stones as if someone has carelessly painted them using all possible colours available in this universe. Perhaps only a geologist can tell you the real meaning of these colours!

Blog ftom the Blue - Wadi Bani Khalid
Coloured mountains - on the way to WBK
4. October is the peak time for turtle watching in Oman as approximately 20,000 turtles or more lay an estimated 50,000-60,000 eggs each year in the Sultanate. (Source of this information: Oman Tourism)

5. Sur is located at the conjunction of two seas – Arabian Sea and Gulf of Oman. Maybe due to this reason it has got some spectacular wild beaches that are a pleasure to indulge in!

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