Paradise Gardens of Kashmir

Kashmir – a place that has been associated with Paradise since ages, a destination that has been every Indian’s dream to visit, a valley that has caught every traveller’s fascination, a backdrop that has been filmed by numerous Indian movies of the bygone days. My childhood dream of visiting this heaven on earth- mostly fuelled by the Eastman coloured Hindi movies and fascinating travel stories has been slowly fading away. Modern day Indian films too have ignored Kashmir and found many better backdrops abroad while the terrorists have found Kashmir a better place to dwell! The insurgent activities have taken a toll on the tourism industry of Kashmir and the heaven started to become a hell.

I had to cancel once my planned trip to Kashmir due to the unrest in the valley. However, things are changing and hope it will continue to change for better and the tourism in this valley will prosper in days to come.

After much planning and thinking, one fine day, we flew from Muscat to Srinagar – the capital of Kashmir. It was April 2012, a great time to visit the valley, a season when the Tulips bloom and the ice starts melting. The situation of the valley was normal and tourists, mostly Indians have packed out all the must visit sites!

The first view: As our plane was approaching Srinagar, a magnificent panorama of snow capped mountains and yellow mustard fields appeared through the flight windows. Wish I had a window seat with a high resolution camera ready in my hands! Nevertheless, I kept my eyes wide open and tried to grab as much as possible this view of heaven from the top! Certain memories do not need a camera to hold, they are imprinted on mind. This was one of such memories.

The Dal Lake: The purpose of writing this article is to tell you about the hundreds of years old magnificent gardens of Srinagar. Yet, no writing on Srinagar is complete without mentioning the Dal Lake – the jewel of Kashmir, a sprawling lake of over 25 square km right at the heart of the city. This is the lake from where river Jhelum has originated. Nagin Lake and Wullar Lake are the two other prominent lakes in the city. These lakes are almost frozen during the winter. The spring and summer are best time for tourists to enjoy the beauty of Kashmir, be it the blooming flowers, yellow mustard fields or a night stay at one of the many houseboats across the length and breadth of these lakes. It’s truly an unforgettable experience to stay on these houseboats floating over the scenic lake with a panoramic view of the mighty snow clad mountains.

Floating market at Dal Lake, Srinagar, Kashmir

The Dal Lake is also famous for its Shikara ride – a quintessential boat ride also known as the water taxi of Kashmir. Shikara can be used to visit the floating market, the floating vegetable & flower gardens, the floating post office and the majestic gardens such as Shalimar Bagh or Nishat Bagh.

This lake has found its place in many creative works and continues to inspire the artists be it for a creative art or for a lyrical masterpiece!

Shikaras at Dal Lake, Srinagar, Kashmir

The breathtaking view of this lake also compliments the royal gardens of Kashmir about which I’m writing in the following passages.

Shalimar Bagh: Way back in the year 1616, Mughal emperor Jahangir built this beautiful garden for his beloved wife Noor Jahan. Designed in Persian style, this garden is surrounded by Chinar trees and is full of fountains, flowers and manicured gardens. The garden has got three terraces – each one designed with a specific purpose. During the rule of the Mughals, only the first terrace – known as Diwan-e-Aam was opened to the public. The second terrace was reserved for the royal guests and aristocrats and it was called Diwan-e-Khas. The third and the highest one called Zenana or Harem was only for the king and his wives.

Shalimar Bagh. CC Image Courtesy shahbasharat https://flic.kr/p/5emPem

Nishat Bagh: This is largest of all the Mughal gardens of Kashmir. Designed by Jahangir’s broder in law Asaf Khan, this garden was built in the year 1633. Located on the eastern banks of Dal Lake, Nishat Bagh, which means garden of joy, has 12 terraces, each one full with flowers, lawns and tall trees – the most impressive of which are the chinar and cypress trees. 
All the terraces of Nishat Bagh have water pools coupled with fountains, the 11th one has the highest number  of fountains, 25. The 12th terrace or the Zenana terrace was exclusively for the King and the royal ladies.

Nishat Bagh is at a distance of 25 km from the airport and can be reached by both road or a Shikara ride on the Dal Lake

Nishat Bagh. CC Image Courtesy mckaysavage https://flic.kr/p/6YkX4q

Chasme Shahi Garden:

Chashme Shahi Garden, Srinagar

Built in the year 1632 during the Shah Jahan rule, this one is the smallest Mughal garden of Kashmir. The garden is full with different varieties of fragrant flowers, lawns, waterfall and fountains and provides a breathtaking view of the green mountains.

The name Chashme Shahi means the royal spring and the garden is built around a spring. The water of the spring is believed to have medicinal importance. The garden is designed in Persian style and it overlooks the mighty Dal Lake on one side and the Zabarwan hills on the other.

Chashme shahi Garden, Srinagar

Char Chinar Garden :

This one is a tiny island garden located in the Dal Lake which can be reached by a Shikara boat. The name char chinar is derived from the four Chinar trees that stand across the boundary of the island as a landmark. Chinar trees grow in abundance in this region and have been a pert of Kashmiri life and tradition.

Char Chinar Garden, Srinagar

Pari Mahal:

Pari Mahal, Srinagar

Located on the slopes of Zabarwan hills, near the Chasme Shahi Garden, this charming garden was built at the ruins of a Buddhist monastery. This ancient monument is believed to be constructed for the purpose of astronomical observations by prince Dara Shukoh, the eldest son of Shah Jahan in the year 1650. He  named it after his wife Nadira Begum, who was also known as Pari Begum.

The garden of Pari Mahal has six terraces spreading across an area of over 7500 square meters. The gardens are watered by a nearby spring. 

Tulip Garden:

Tulip Garden, Srinagar

This is a new addition to the age old tradition of Kashmiri gardens. Decorated with lines of different varieties and colours of Tulip flowers spreading across 15 hectars, this garden is a real delight to the senses. One of the most visited attractions of Srinagar, the ideal time to visit this garden is during March and April when the flowers are in full bloom. The garden was opened only a few years ago and since then it has found a place in the heart of the tourists. Tulips are very delicate flowers and can be grown only in favourable weather conditions. Kashmir is one of the very few places on earth that suits the Tulip plantation. Over 1.2 million Tulips of different varieties bloom every year here making this garden look like a colourful carpet on the foothills of Zabarwan mountains

Tulip Garden, Srinagar

Tulip Garden, Srinagar

Tulip Garden, Srinagar

Apart from these wonderful gardens and lakes, Srinagar has many other attractions  - Hazratbal Mosque, Hari Parbat Fort, Shankaracharya Temple, Sri Pratap Singh Museum and so many other tourist places which I could not visit during my short stay in the city. Finally, I conclude by sharing a few advices which might be helpful if you are planning a vacation to Srinagar for the first time.

1. How to reach: Srinagar airport is well connected with the international airports in Delhi and Mumbai. Some flights also have a stopover at Jammu. The airport security is very tight and time consuming. Be prepared for it and reach the airport early while returning. Srinagar can also be reached by car from nearest railway station Jammu (258 km) and from Delhi (876 km)

2. Be aware: Keep a track of the latest happenings in the state and if you come across any news of violence or unrest in the region, do not hesitate to cancel the trip even at the last moment.

3. Be safe: Book the accommodation well in advance. The tourists are often approached by stray agents, guides or porters. Better to avoid them. Also, do not buy anything from roaming vendors who try to lure the tourists to sell their products or services.

4. Be careful: Keep your belongings safely. Never trust strangers.

5. Dealing with locals: Bargain hard. The price is often overstated to the tourists, particularly the foreigners.

6. Things to buy: Kashmir is famous for Cashmere (Pashmina) shawls. You can buy it as a souvenir or for your winter use, but only from a good store. Never buy from stray vendors. You can also consider buying carpets and saffron (kesar). 

7. Nearby attractions: Gulmarg, Pahalgam and Sonmarg are some of the great places to visit while you are in Srinagar. You can also plan one or two night-stays in some of these places. Kashmir is full of natural beauty. Try to enjoy it as much as possible with a well planned itinerary.

Notwithstanding the underdeveloped tourism industry of the state and incidences of violence, tourists can’t resist visiting Kashmir for its scenic beauty and the paranormal experience of heaven on earth. The beauty of Kashmir can only be felt by staying there and exploring the city at a slow pace. It’s a must visit destination for all, particularly for nature lovers. Kashmir is awe-inspiring, incredible, out of the world - I could have written more, only if I had any word left in my vocabulary.

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Beaches of Oman

Do all beaches look similar? If Sun, Sands and Waves are the only ingredients of a beach, they do. Then why do some beaches appeal more than the rest? What makes a beach special? Why do people flock to some particular beaches and avoid the rest of the bunch?

I still remember the sight of my life’s first beach view at Rushikonda beach of Vizag, India. Since then I’ve had many beach experiences- the most unforgettable of all these was an aerial view of   Blue Bay of Mauritius on my honeymoon trip.

Fortunately, I happen to stay at Muscat, Oman, which is home to many spectacular beaches. The Gulf of Oman on the east and Arabian Sea on the south of Oman bestow some breathtaking views and plethora of aquatic life. Tourists come to this country to see dolphins, birds and green turtles and fall in love with its magnificent beaches.

Here are some of the great beaches of Oman I visited time and again during the last 2 and half years. 

 Qantab Beach:

This one is a unique beach decorated by brown rock formations. Visiting this place before noon would offer a breathtaking view of shining rocky islands reflecting the sunlight. The rocks are located right on the sea and are of different size, shape and architecture. Boating on the sea through these rocky islands is a must do activity of Qantab beach.  It’s also an ideal place for swimming, snorkelling and barbequing, particularly during the evening when the weather is nice, the sea winds are around and the amber rays of the setting Sun colourise the sea surface.

Qantab is located just at a 20 minutes drive from the heart of Muscat. Not far from the beach, there is this beautiful resort of Shangri-La’s Barr Al Jissah. The short drive from Qantab towards this resort offers some amazing views of the sea and the rocky hills which are worth clicking for a perfect postcard of Muscat.

Shangri La's Barr Al Jissah resort near Qantab Beach

Yitti Beach: 

20 Kilometres from Qantab, and you are here at Yitti. Another exciting beach, much larger than Qantab. The excess sands at the beach might turn you off at the first place but the long stretch of beach offers an ideal opportunity for jogging. You can also give a try to rock climbing or a more subtle family picnic. It’s a happening place and you can choose from playing football to quad biking.

Qurum Beach:

This one is my favourite weekend pastime. What makes me come to this place again and again? May be it is the proximity to the city, or the clear sand & water, or the 3 kilometer long stretch of beach, or maybe I love relaxing on the green lawn under the shades of coconut trees! Whatever be the reason, this plain vanilla beach attracts all – natives, expats and tourists. Many big hotels which are located on this beach have made this place a roaming ground for all kinds of tourists and beach lovers.

Beach of Sur:

Sur has some of the finest exotic beaches. Being the easternmost tip of Oman, Sur has best of both the seas – Gulf of Oman and Arabian Sea.  The rich marine life and vibrant sea have made Sur a tourists’ heaven. Turtle watching and bird watching form major tourist interests. Many beach in and around Sur such as Ras Al Hadd, Ras Al Jinz, have become famous for Green Turtles that come to this place for laying eggs at the beach. The 200 km drive from Muscat to Sur along the coastal road is also an experience to remember.

 Tiwi Beach:

This beach is located along the new Sur road from Muscat to Sur. This is the place where Wadi Tiwi meets the sea. This is an oasis full of green water, trees and vegetation. The beach is filled with small stones and as such not ideal for any activity. However, it’s an ideal spot for picnic and bird watching, particularly near the wadi. The breathtaking view of the sparkling blue water and the clean beach would beckon everyone who happen to pass by the bridge over the wadi.

Al Sawadi:

Just take a barefoot walk at this beach and you will be mildly pinched by something in your feet. Look down and you will be delighted to see innumerable sea shells of myriad of colours.  These seashells that decorate the shoreline of Al Sawadi beach is the result of the rich aqua life of the sea. Probably that is why this beach has become an ideal snorkelling and diving destination.

There are a number of resorts near this beach. Tourists also don’t mind to travel the distance of 110 km from Muscat to enjoy the marine life of Al Sawadi. Boats are available on hire, which can be used to visit the nearby islands. These islands are ideal for a family picnic.

Anonymous:

Finally, take a look at this tiny yet secluded beach. Located not far from Qantab beach, this romantic escape would require you to take a boat ride or to take the challenge of climbing down the rocks! There are many such unknown or lesser known beaches all around Oman that would be a delight for adventure seekers or those looking for an offbeat beach experience.

This is not an exhaustive list of the beaches of Oman. I am yet to visit many other great beaches of this country about which I’ve heard fascinating descriptions such as the beaches of Dhofar, Sohar and Duqm.  

Now, coming back to – what makes a beach special? Based on my experience I would say – friendly local people, complimenting landscapes, nice weather, availability of recreational facilities, richness of marine life and above all great company are the perfect ingredients to make a beach getaway special. The beaches of Oman may not be part of every traveller’s wish list, but they wouldn’t disappoint one if you evaluate a beach based on these parameters. The secluded and unspoilt nature of some of the beaches would appeal one and all beyond doubt. 

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Wadi Bani Khalid – an Oasis in the midst of desert.

Ideas for a perfect weekend in the midst of sands, mountains and wild wadis of Oman

How would you feel plunging into a natural swimming pool that is constantly replenished by fresh spring water? How about a family picnic in a cool and quite environ under the shadow of a sunkissed mountain? Is rock climbing or trekking interest you? Are you in the mood of taking a relaxed fish pedicure?

All these experiences, yes everything mentioned above coupled with a background that reminisces a perfect Arabian Desert oasis would come alive once you enter this beautiful landscape called Wadi Bani Khalid. We have been to this place twice and wouldn’t mind to be there for a third time!

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As you travel along the old Sur road and enter the Sharqiyah region at about a distance of 200 km from Muscat, the view of rocky and dry mountains, that is very much archetypal of the Sultanate of Oman, slowly disappears into endless red sand dunes of its only desert – Wahiba Sands. Not far from this desert – may be just at a distance of 30 kilometers or so from desert town of Bidiya, there is this natural wetland we are talking about – an oasis full of greenery fed by continuous flow of natural spring waters. It’s a small village called Wadi Bani Khalid (WBK) where the farmers cultivate varieties of fruits, vegetables and crops.

The colourful road towards Wadi Bani Khalid

As you reach the dead end of the road, you need to park the car and walk for around 300 meters along the artificial water cannels that channelize spring water into farmlands. Upon crossing this narrow passage covered with tall grass and wet soil, the view of the emerald lake will welcome you. Many tourists return from this lake without noticing the signpost directing to the Mukal Cave (Muqal cave in some boards). Yes, the real thrill and fun is yet to be reached. For this, you need to trek for another 400 meters to see the natural pool, small waterfall and finally the cave.

Springwater cannels

Wadi Bani Khalid - first view

After climbing down the uneven rocks, once you reach the open area, you can engage yourself in lots of activities- you can swim across the narrow wadi carved between white rocks, dip yourself into the pool and relax lazily while a hoard of fish gently tickle your skin (fish spa is believed to be a great skin treatment as it cleans by removing the dead skin), or you can further go ahead to find the source of the spring, explore the Mukal cave and lose yourself in the wilderness of the wadi.

It’s truly a delight, a paradise not much explored. You will not find many tourists here (only if you visit during weekdays), nor has this place found a mention in many travel guides. Away from the hustles and bustles, this place will steal your heart with its calm and quite milieu and breathtaking view.

This pool is ideal for fish pedicure

How to reach:

If you like reading directions, here is a short description of the road to WBK

1. If you start from Muscat, head towards airport. Just after crossing the airport take left turn from Al Mawalah roundabout towards Nizwa. This is a dual carriageway road, route no. 15 to be precise, that leads to Nizwa.

2. After half an hour or so, you will reach the town of Fanja. Keep moving straight until you reach Bidbid. From here, take a left turn towards Ibra. This is route no. 23 and a single carriageway which means a tardy driving experience.

3. After one and half hour or so, you will reach Ibra. Keep moving straight and you will enter the Sharqiah region. Here, you will be greeted by a view of red sand dunes on both sides of the road and if you are lucky you might see hoards of camels!

4. The town near the Wahiba sands is called Bidiya. Once you cross Bidiya and travel for around 15 km, you need to look cautiously towards left for a brown signboard written Wadi Bani Khalid and Mukal Cave. Take a left turn.

5. Keep moving until you hit a T junction. Take left from here. Then take the second right turn to reach the parking. From here, you can clearly see the fertile valley and vegetation. Start walking for about 10 minutes along the cannels that irrigate the place. Here you are!

Found the directions confusing? Not a problem. Just have look at this google map:


View Larger Map

Once you reach near the place, you might find it difficult to exactly locate the place. Ask any local villager where the water pool is located. Never ask where is WBK, because the entire village is called Wadi Bani Khalid. The villager will be more than happy to guide you.

What to see and do:

Here is a list of things to see and do at WBK – arranged from low to high activity level:

#Visit the village and see the farmland, #Picnic and BBQ, #Fish Therapy, #Trekking, #Swimming, #Snorkeling, #Diving, #Rock climbing, # Exploring inside the Mukal cave.

Follow the directions in brown signboard towards the cave

Lots of things to do…! Still not tired….? Willing to do more….? Well, there are so many other things to see and do, but for this you need to come out of the wadi. Look through the itinerary section below where I’m mentioning various other activities in nearby places that you can club with your WBK adventure.

Precautions to take:

1. Once you enter the wadi, you will notice a signboard asking the tourists not to engage any local villager for porter or any other services. Still, some local children might approach you to guide you through the valley anticipating some tips. There is no need for a tourist guide unless you want to explore the inside of the cave. Nonetheless, there is no harm in offering a small tip to the young kid.

2. Never swim in the first pool. It is full of algae and fungus that might harm your skin.

Never swim here

3. Whatever activities you engage in, always be watchful. For, there is no doctor or pharmacy nearby. In case of a medical need, the nearest place to go is Sur which is at a distance of 110 km.

4. Keep water and food items with you. The nearest restaurant is at Bidiya – at a distance of 35 km. Also, don’t forget to bring a torch/flashlight in case you want to explore the cave.

5. In case of heavy rain, or even mild rain continuing for more than half an hour, leave this place immediately. Rain waters flow down from all the mountains and engulf the wadi very quickly. The whole area might get flooded in no time and eventually lead to a road block. Oman has lost many lives in floods caused by rainwater. The wadis in Oman turn very dangerous in case of rain.

Plan your itinerary for 2 days of stay at Oman:

Wadi Bani Khalid is an experience to remember, a must visit site of Oman. Still, you would like to have more fun to compensate the long drive of 7 hours (3 and half hours each side), especially if you are visiting Oman for a short duration and want to explore as much as possible in a short time. So, here is an itinerary how you can club other must visit attractions of Oman for an overnight stay:

1. Reach WBK at about 10 am in the morning. Irrespective of your choice of activity to do, you can spend at least 3 hours at this place. Thereafter head towards Wahiba sands (35 km) for Dune bashing at the desert (Remember to book a car in advance for dune bashing, or you can get one at Bidiya).

2. a) Stay overnight at a desert camp. A number of tour operators offer desert night camps. Book one in advance. Many of them offer barbeque dinner, local musical song and dance shows, camel riding etc. Spending a night at a desert camp with campfire and music will definitely remind you of the stories from Arabian nights that you might have read in your childhood.

A view of Wahiba Sands

b) In case you do not prefer to stay at a desert camp, you can head to Sur (110 km) where you can get a range of budget hotels. Choose the one you find most uncomfortable! Because you need to get up at night! People from all around the world folk here to wake up at midnight to see green turtles laying eggs on the beach. In fact there are a number of cozy resorts near Sur that specialise in turtle watching. Be careful not to disturb the turtles. Just follow your guide and have a memorable experience of watching big turtles crowding up the beach to lay eggs.

Sur bridge

3. Next morning, wake up late and enjoy the view of beautiful beaches of Sur. Visit the hanging bridge of Sur and then take the 200 km long new Sur-Muscat road (route 17) to get back to Muscat. Don’t worry, it’s a dual carriageway and takes only 2 hours to Muscat. But, the beautiful view of the sea on one side and East Hajar mountain on the other side coupled with stunning landscapes and must visit attractions wouldn’t let you reach Muscat in 2 hours!

4. Things to see and do along the new Sur Road: Lots! Wadi Shab, Wadi Tiwi, Bimah Sinkhole, Wadi al Arbaeen, and the list go on. But I realise now my article getting too lengthy and I’m afraid I might turn you off. So, I stop here and promise to write about all the great things that could happen to you along the new Sur road in another blog article.

Other facts:

Finally I could not resist writing about some facts I found worth sharing about these places.

1. If you are not from the Middle East, you might be wondering what a Wadi is! It’s just like a river that only carries rainwater or spring water to the sea. They are mostly dry. In case of heavy rain, wadis are flooded with water from all the surrounding mountains.

2. Wadi bani Khalid is located at a mountain gorge. It is surrounded by tall steep mountains from all the sides, which means a late morning and an early evening.

3. The turn off from highway (route no. 23) to Wadi Bani Khalid crisscrosses many hills on its way. These hills are decorated in colourful stones as if someone has carelessly painted them using all possible colours available in this universe. Perhaps only a geologist can tell you the real meaning of these colours!

Coloured mountains - on the way to WBK

4. October is the peak time for turtle watching in Oman as approximately 20,000 turtles or more lay an estimated 50,000-60,000 eggs each year in the Sultanate. (Source of this information: Oman Tourism)

5. Sur is located at the conjunction of two seas – Arabian Sea and Gulf of Oman. Maybe due to this reason it has got some spectacular wild beaches that are a pleasure to indulge in!

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